Amalfi is the principal town on the Amalfi Coast—and its gastronomic epicenter. The surrounding hills are blanketed with heirloom Sfusato Amalfitano lemon groves and vineyards producing Costa d’Amalfi DOC wines; the coastline is bookended by buffalo mozzarella dairies to the south and Provolone di Monaco cheese producers to the north; and each morning, fishing boats sail back to port laden with the catch of the day.
When I want to feel chic on the Amalfi Coast, I stop in Positano. For unparalleled clifftop views, Ravello is my base. But when I am looking for unforgettable food, I make a beeline for Amalfi. Here are my insider tips for three food-filled days in the heart of Italy’s most famous coastline.
Because of scorching midday temperatures, dinner is served late during the summer on the coast. Don’t expect to dine before 8 or 9pm.
If you only have time for one thing, indulge in a delizia al limone (lemon-infused cake) at Amalfi’s landmark Pansa pastry shop.
On the return drive, stop in the pretty resort town of Praiano for a sunset aperitivo; its central wine bar has unobstructed panoramic views. Back in Amalfi, tuck into traditional fish and seafood dishes at one of the many family-run trattorias—Da Gemma and Da Teresa are two local favorites.
As dusk falls, set sail for a sunset aperitivo at sea. Cruise along the coastline from Amalfi while you sip prosecco and nibble on local specialties like taralli (savory breadstick rings) and artisan cheeses and charcuterie.
Today, take a foodie day trip to the resort town of Sorrento to sample its distinctive local cuisine, heavily influenced by its close proximity to Naples. Nibble your way through the old town on a food tour or head to the rolling hills of the Sorrentine Peninsula to visit local farms that produce artisan cheeses, charcuterie, limoncello, and other local specialties. Then, visit an olive estate and mill for a guided tasting of extra-virgin olive oils pressed on the coastline.
Once back in Amalfi, grab a table at Donna Stella Pizzeria in the old town and tuck into authentic pizza napolitana for your final dinner.