Karen is a Scottish freelance travel and culture writer based in the US. Her work has appeared in The Washington Post, National Geographic, BBC, and Condé Nast Traveler.
Karen is a Scottish freelance travel and culture writer based in the US. Her work has appeared in The Washington Post, National Geographic, BBC, and Condé Nast Traveler.
Hi, I'm Karen!Karen is a Scottish freelance travel and culture writer based in the US. Her work has appeared in The Washington Post, National Geographic, BBC, and Condé Nast Traveler.
Hi, I'm Karen!Karen is a Scottish freelance travel and culture writer based in the US. Her work has appeared in The Washington Post, National Geographic, BBC, and Condé Nast Traveler.
Scotland’s beguiling capital is chock-full of history and culture. Since most visitors tend to stick to the well-worn tourist trails around the Old Town and New Town, these areas can feel oppressively crowded. This is particularly true along the Royal Mile in the busy summer months like July and August.
But with a bit of creative thinking and organization, you can enjoy some lesser-visited sides of Edinburgh, from its coastal beaches and historic gardens to local restaurants and gin distilleries. Here’s how.
Carve your own path through one of Europe’s oldest botanic gardens. A haven of serenity, the Royal Botanic Garden has multiple trails winding through its sprawling grounds of more than 70 acres (28 hectares).
Admire its remarkable collection of diverse plants (including more than 1,000 species of rhododendron, which put on a dazzling display in spring), elegant Victorian glasshouses, a giant water lily pond, and a rock garden. And don’t miss the view of the skyline, one of the best in Edinburgh.
With so many eateries clustered in Edinburgh’s hotspots, it can be tricky to figure out where to dine. A good rule is to get away from the most obviously tourist-oriented businesses on the Royal Mile and its immediate surroundings and head for the smaller spots on less-trafficked streets.
On the edge of the New Town, Broughton Street is a good bet, as is Stockbridge and, further afield, Leith. Taking a food tour is a great way to let the experts make the decisions for you—your guide will know exactly where to find the best eats.
You can’t leave Scotland without a dram or two of the national drink, whisky. But you should also take the opportunity to indulge in a few glasses of gin, as the vast majority of gin produced in the UK comes from Scotland, and the country is home to more than 100 gin distilleries, a few of which are based in Edinburgh.
Enjoy the local gin scene with a visit to Pickering's Gin Jolly Distillery or the Secret Garden Distillery and sip cocktails at a dedicated gin bar such as 56 North, close to Edinburgh University.
Many visitors overlook the fact that Edinburgh’s setting along the Firth of Forth puts it within easy reach of a handful of golden beaches.
If you’re lucky enough to be in town on a sunny day, take the bus to the coastal suburb of Portobello for a dose of retro seaside charm, or continue along the coast to the quieter beach of Gullane. From there, walk along the coast to Yellowcraig Beach, then reward yourself with a pint at a village pub in Dirleton.
Around a half hour’s drive south of the city (accessible by public bus), the sprawling Pentland Hills Regional Park offers an escape from the crowds and a taste of the great outdoors right on Edinburgh’s doorstep.
You can stretch your legs along more than 62 miles (100 kilometers) of waymarked paths over rolling hills and lush moorland. If you don’t want to walk alone or want to learn more about the area’s natural history, book a guided hike.
Stretching 12 miles from Balerno at the foot of the Pentlands all the way to the port of Leith, the Water of Leith Walkway is a lovely leafy route for walking or cycling.
The path follows the river running through the heart of Edinburgh, but you don’t have to tackle the entire length. The stretch from Dean Village to Stockbridge is one of the prettiest, complete with woodland on both sides and interesting remnants from the area's mill days.
Escape from the hustle and bustle of the city at serene Dr. Neil’s Garden by Duddingston Kirk. Overlooking Duddingston Loch on the lower slopes of Arthur's Seat, this quiet, verdant space is one of the most peaceful places in the city.
Tucked away at the end of the Old Town, close to the Scottish Parliament Building, Dunbar’s Garden is close to the Royal Mile, yet the crowds feel worlds away. The 17th-century garden has winding pathways, herbs, flowers, shrub gardens, and benches ideal for relaxing.
