To get a feel of an authentic Neapolitan neighborhood, stroll through the Quartieri Spagnoli on the edge of the historic center. This warren of narrow lanes, thick with shops open to the street and lines of colorful laundry flapping above, is wedged between Via Toledo and the San Martino hill. Neighbors have animated conversations between balconies, housewives lower baskets on a rope from upper-floor windows to haul up the day’s shopping, kids kick soccer balls in the street, and mopeds roar by day and night. In addition to its gloriously gruff charm, the neighborhood is home to the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli and Palazzo Serra di Cassano.