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Kandy is a fighter. The last capital of the ancient kings of Sri Lanka was established in the 14th century. By the end of the 16th century, it was the last independent kingdom on the island, fiercely resisting the Dutch invasion that took over the rest of Sri Lanka (then Ceylon). Under British colonial rule, Kandy resisted invasion for more than a decade before succumbing in 1815. Now, the city is now best known for the Temple of the Tooth, one of the most famous sites in Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka is curious in that it experiences two monsoon seasons. One hits the south and west of the island in summer, while the other hits the north and east of the island in winter. As Kandy lies in the middle, it can be visited at any time, but October and November tend to be the rainiest.
The best way to get to and from Kandy is on the iconic blue train, which winds its way through the tea plantations all the way from Ella, six hours southeast. Passengers can also pick up the train from Nuwara Eliya or Hatton (four and two hours from Kandy, respectively). In the city itself, booking a driver is most practical, but be aware that the traffic can be hellish.
Don’t overlook the scenery just outside Kandy. Low-lying tea plantations, rubber plantations, and spice plantations are just some of the variety you'll see. Hikers should head to the Knuckles Mountain Range, the highest mountains in Sri Lanka, easily accessible on a day trip from Kandy. If visiting for the Esala Perahera Festival, also known as the Festival of the Tooth, book well in advance, as accommodation can fill up months in advance.
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The most famous sight is the 16th century Temple of the Tooth. It houses a casket purportedly holding a relic of Buddha's tooth. In a twice daily ceremony, the casket is paraded around the temple. Kandy also has a well-known World War II war cemetery and an excellent botanical garden.
...MoreBegin at the Temple of the Tooth to watch the morning ceremony, where a casket purportedly holding a relic of Buddha's tooth is paraded through the temple. Then, it’s a short hop to the botanical gardens, Peradeniya. At night, watch a Kandyan dance performance. The outfits and headpieces are opulent.
...MoreThe Esala Perahera, or Festival of the Tooth, is Kandy's biggest festival. Every August, the city comes alive in color and music as Kandyans pay homage to Lord Buddha. Every terrace and rooftop become a place to sit and watch the parades of painted elephants, Kandyan dancing, and fire dancing.
...MoreSri Lanka is incredibly biodiverse, particularly in terms of birdlife. The Udawatta Kele Sanctuary, within the city itself, is a twitcher's paradise, with more than 80 different species. Kandy’s food markets are also well worth a trip (try the Central Market), and you’ll likely taste delicacies you never knew existed.
...MorePlan at least two days to experience the Temple of the Tooth, see a Kandyan dance performance, and visit a nearby rubber, tea, or spice plantations. Visitors going south by train should know that the onward journey starts early in the morning, so there's no sightseeing on checkout day.
...MoreThere are direct trains linking the city with Colombo, the island’s capital, but the train for which Kandy is known is the iconic blue locomotive that winds its way for six hours through tea country to reach Ella. It’s a popular route, so book tickets in advance.
...More