Things to do in  Naples

Brash, animated Naples is the birthplace of the modern pizza, with venerable old-school joints churning out the beloved pies in the same fashion for generations. The ruins of Pompeii and the glittering Amalfi Coast and Island of Capri are just outside the city—and close runners-up.

Start with coffee and a sfogliatella pastry at the historic Gran Caffè Gambrinus. From there, visit the Royal Palace of Milan, San Carlo Opera House, and Galleria Umberto I before strolling up Via Toledo to the Naples National Archeological Museum. Dinner is at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele on Via Cesare Sersale.

Inside the Sansevero Chapel you’ll find Giuseppe Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ. The realistic marble sculpture of a shrouded, lifeless Christ is thought to have been created by transmuting cloth into crystalline marble. Lines are notoriously long—booking advance admission tickets is absolutely crucial.

Some habits to avoid in Italy: turning up as a guest without a pensiero, a small gift; blocking tailgaters from passing on the left (fast) lane on highways; and entering churches with exposed shoulders or knees. While not rude, ordering cappuccinos after breakfast or cheese on seafood are faux pas.

Between April and October, Neapolitans swim in the Parco Sommerso di Gaiola, a secluded marine reserve with submerged Roman ruins. Year-round they take part in the afternoon passeggiata—ritual, leisurely walks along either the lungomare (promenade) or fashionable Via Toledo, which leads to Port’Alba and the dense historic center.

No. Hostel and guesthouse stays, terrific pizza and street food, and affordable museums and attractions make Naples the least expensive metro on the Italian mainland. Travelers can spend days simply walking through the liveliest neighborhoods—those searching for la bella vita can visit exclusive Capri or the Amalfi Coast.