A Holly Jolly Guide to Strasbourg During the Holidays

Not only is Strasbourg’s main Christmas market the largest in France, with over 300 wooden chalets and a tree just shy of 100 feet (30.5 meters) tall, it’s also the oldest, appearing on records as early as 1570, when it was called Christkindelmärik, or the market of Baby Jesus. The chocolate-box town Colmar, where Desvernois also runs tours, regularly tops lists for having the most picturesque Christmas market—and being the most picturesque town—in the country.

Much of the produce sold at the market comes from Alsace, a region that changed hands between France and Germany multiple times before World War II. Mulled wine, crémant (sparkling wine), and gingerbread are just some of the culinary delights, along with handmade crafts—most notably, the Christmas bauble.

“During the 19th century, Alsace was hit by drought,” explains Desvernois. “Typically locals had decorated their Christmas trees with apples, but with food scarce, local craftsmen had the idea of blowing balls of glass to create decorations instead. The Christmas bauble was born!”

Strasbourg sits firmly on the Alsace Wine Route, so wine (mulled or otherwise) is a must. “Get a glass of sweet, aromatic Gewürztraminer,” says Desvernois. “It pairs perfectly with gingerbread and a slice of Munster (a soft cheese made from unpasteurized cow’s milk).” The German influence is also apparent in the selection of beer on offer, and ale lovers can even try mulled beer on Place des Meuniers.

“Save room for dessert,” advises Desvernois. “On cold days, the best way to warm up is with a hot chocolate from Bistrot et Chocolat, behind the cathedral. Torche aux marrons, Strasbourg’s famous chestnut cream and meringue dessert, is available from most of the city tea rooms, but for bredele, Alsacian butter cookies, the market outside the Rohan Palace (former residence of Strasbourg’s nobility) is best.”

Save room in your suitcase: Strasbourg’s Christmas markets are open from 11am to 8pm daily, so there’s plenty of time to shop. Desvernois recommends hitting the markets at around 4pm, as the sun sets and the chalets light up. For eco-friendly gifts, head to Strasbourg’s OFF Market which serves organic produce and recycled and upcycled crafts, along with wine tastings, concerts, and other events.

Away from the markets, La Maison de Hanssen et Gretel sells locally made ceramics, kelsch (red check) tablecloths and napkins, and⁠—in keeping with the shop’s name⁠—plenty of gingerbread. “The collective of local craftspeople at Le Générateur is fantastic too,” says Desvernois. “They sell jewelry, clothes, artwork, bags, and so much more.”

Strasbourg isn’t short on accommodation, but it pays to book early over the Christmas period. It’s difficult to beat the location of Hotel Cour du Corbeau, a 4-star hotel right by the cathedral. One of the oldest hotels in Europe, it has seen centuries’ worth of Christmas markets pass through Grand Île, Strasbourg’s city center. The exposed beams in the rooms and flower-lined balconies of the dark wood building are like falling into a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.

The Strasbourg Cathedral is unmissable, and throughout December it’s lavishly decorated, complete with a nativity scene. Desvernois recommends coinciding your visit with a carol service. About 330 stairs climb up to the cathedral guardhouse and viewing platform for superb views over the old city, particularly impressive when the markets are in full swing.

“Try to coincide your trip with the Medieval Christmas market in Ribeauvillé,” says Desvernois. Under an hour from Strasbourg, it’s held over two weekends each December and is a real time warp and insight into what Alsatian Christmas markets were like during their advent.

And finally, with the 105-mile (169-kilometer) long Alsatian Wine Route winding through the area, it would be a shame to leave without doing a tasting.